Turning this boring, slanted wall into one of the room's main features started with installing a modern geometric design on it.
My last post was about how I wanted to create a design on paper, but, as usual, I failed. I commissioned my nephew to do that job for me. He delivered three beautiful designs, but I chickened out on working with the one I liked. There were too many numbers and cuts to follow, and to tell you the truth, I'm not too good at that.
What did I do instead??
Well, I went my own way, creating an even easier design as I went along.
I can tell you it was a fun project that required me to step back to see if I was happy with what I was creating. Ha, something I much prefer to following crazy numbers!
The slanted wall was a bit of an issue during the design process. I wanted to make that slant less noticeable, if at all possible.
Let me show you how it all went.
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You can check a time-lapse video of this project right here:
The materials you'll need:
- Wood - 1 x 2 boards - I used 176 feet - 12 -10' & 2 -16'
- Baseboard - 1 x 6 x 16'
- Painters tape
- Brad nails 18 gauge x 2"
- Spackling paste
- Caulk
Tools:
Miter saw - Brad Nailer - T-Bevel angle finder - Level - Ladder - Framing Square - Tape measure - Sander -
DIRECTIONS
1. DIVIDE THE WALL INTO SECTIONS
I used painter's tape to divide the wall into the three main sections I wanted to create. As usual, uneven numbers work better.
Setting that right angle was a good move for easier cuts later on.
Once happy with that first layout, go ahead and install those wooden pieces.
An extra set of hands is invaluable in dealing with those longboards.
2. START FILLING UP EACH SECTION
I tried to fool the eye by installing those 1 x 2's pointing upwards in that right-hand side section, the shortest part of the wall.
The material was spaced every 12". Pieces of wood were the best spacers to ensure every section was the same size.
3. HOW TO MEASURE AND CUT THE WOODEN PIECES
Set a long enough 1 x 2 on the location you want to install it. Bring it all the way to the wall to mark the angle at which that end needs to be trimmed.
Use a t-bevel angle finder to set that angle. A t-bevel angle is a tool that is used to lay out and transfer angles.
You loosen up both blades of the t-bevel by loosening the wing nut in the center. Place the t-bevel in the place where you need to measure the angle. Once you're happy with it, tighten the wing nut to lock that angle in place, then transfer it onto the wood.
As you can see in the picture below, the red lines I drew correspond to the same angle captured by the device. The line across the board is the one that needs to be cut.
Bring the board back again to its designated space. Set that freshly cut end against the wall and mark the location for where the other end needs to be cut (right picture below).
Continue working in the same manner across all areas of the wall.
4. IT'S A MODERN FREE DESIGN
Remember, it's your own design, you set your own rules!
In the left section of my wall, I laid the boards horizontally, and the spaces between them were uneven.
This left section is the highest part of this wall. By setting the design horizontally, I wanted to diminish the elevation, creating a straight lower line at about the same height as the other side.
Here again, provisional 1x2 long spacers held the main horizontal board in place while I measured and installed it.
Did I tell you to step back frequently to see if you like the direction your design is taking??
Here, I wasn't sure about the spaces on that slanted ladder.
5. REMEMBER TO WORK AROUND THE OBJECTS THAT MIGHT COVER YOUR DESIGN
From the very beginning, you have to account for those big items that might cover parts of your design. In my case, the biggest item was the bed with its headboard.
Trace those items onto the wall and work your design around them.
6. FILL HOLES, GAPS, AND SANDUse spackling paste to fill the nail holes and caulk all those lines along the wall.
My husband almost always helps me with this job. ;)
Finally, sand smooths all those surfaces before painting. It's even a good idea to prime those boards before painting.
I was undecided about the slanted ladder, as I call it. At first, I thought the spaces I had given it were too big.
I temporarily installed an extra board in the middle of each square. As you see here:
I left them there for 24 hours, but in the end, I removed them. It looked too busy. 🤔
This is the final design:
Guess what? The next step is painting, and I'm so ready for it!!
Here again are some of the tools that made this job way easier:
The following are all the links to this bedroom makeover:
This is the final design:
Guess what? The next step is painting, and I'm so ready for it!!
Here again are some of the tools that made this job way easier:
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| | Ryobi Miter Saw | Ryobi Brad Nailer | DEWALT Folding Portable Workbench | Werner 5-in-1 Telescoping Ladder | |
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| | Husky Digital T-Bevel/Angle Finder | Bosch Laser Level | Husky Soft Cap Gel Knee Pads | DeWalt Sander | |
The following are all the links to this bedroom makeover:
- The Hanging Planter
- Master Bedroom - The Before
- DIY - Built-in with fireplace
- DIY - Faux Wooden Beams
*This post contains affiliate links.





















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