DIY - Rustic Coffered Ceiling

A Budget-Friendly Room Transformation

The final piece of the puzzle for my dining room makeover (which has now transitioned into my home office!) is finally here: The Coffered Ceiling.

After a short break over the holidays, I'm thrilled to share how this project came together. Believe it or not, this wasn't part of the original plan. I was busy building the bookcases when I looked up at the vast, white expanse of the ceiling and realized it was the perfect "fifth wall" to add some character.

Without thinking twice, I grabbed two scraps of wood to visualize the layout. Right then and there, the plan was set: I was going to build a rustic, flat coffered ceiling.

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The Budget Pivot: From Beadboard to Underlayment

Initially, I wanted to add beadboard between the beams for texture, intending to paint everything a crisp white. However, after realizing five sheets of beadboard weren't in the budget, I pivoted to 1/4" underlayment sheets.

At only $12 per sheet, this was a total game-changer. Plus, the team at The Home Depot made all the cuts for me for a small fee ($5 for seven sheets!). If you're doing this solo, having those professional cuts done beforehand is a massive time-saver.

Project Overview

• Skill Level: Intermediate

• Approximate Area: 12' x 10'

• Style: Rustic / Modern Farmhouse

Materials & Tools

To help you recreate this look, here is exactly what I used for my 120-square-foot ceiling.

Materials

• 1/4" Underlayment sheets: Cut at 8" width (note: usually one "leftover" plank per sheet will be 7 1/2").

• 1 x 4 Primed finger-joint pine: For the room perimeter.

• 1 x 6 Primed finger-joint pine: For the main beams.

• Crown molding: (9/16" x 4-5/8") for the perimeter.

• Small molding or half-round: To trim the interior of the coffers.

• Adhesives: Liquid Nails, Caulk, and Painter's Putty.

• Paint: Behr Swiss Coffee (Semi-Gloss).

• Sandpaper: 120-grit.

Tools Used

• Corner Cat Finish Sander

• 18-Gauge Cordless Brad Nailer

• 15-Gauge Cordless Angled Nailer

• Miter Saw & Jigsaw

• Stud Finder & Level

• Chalk Line

Step-by-Step Directions

1. Preparation and Layout

The most crucial step happens before you drive a single nail. Use a stud finder to locate the ceiling joists and snap chalk lines along the center of each.

Measure the ceiling area and draw your design on paper. Then, bring those measurements to your ceiling. I marked the beam placement directly on the ceiling and also made small reference marks on the walls about the beam placement.

2. Installing the Planks

Before installing, lightly sand your underlayment planks with 120-grit sandpaper to remove splinters. Those edges are the ones you need to give plenty of TLC; they're fragile, so go easy on them. I used 120-grit sandpaper to smooth them all out.

Once the design is in place and your ceiling marks are done, it's time to give it a go.

• The Glue & Nail Method: Apply Liquid Nails to the back of each plank. Ensure that the first plank is level, and keep on checking the level line with the following planks.

• The Layout: Install planks perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Set them in place with two 1¼" brad nails driven along those ceiling joist lines.

• Pro Tip: Use two wooden rulers as spacers (1/8") between planks for a consistent gap.

• Managing Seams: Underlayment comes in 8-foot lengths. Plan your layout so the seams fall where your 1x6 beams will eventually go—this hides the joints perfectly!

Note: You need a helping hand for this part of the project; it's challenging to do this all by yourself. Those planks are long and flimsy.

The planks were marked to fit around the lighting fixture, then cut out with a jigsaw.

• Managing Seams: Underlayment comes in 8-foot lengths. Plan your layout so the seams fall where your 1x6 beams will eventually go—this hides the joints perfectly!

3. The Perimeter and Spacers

I used 1x4 material around the perimeter of the room. I left a 1 1/2" gap between the boards and the wall. Why? Because that space is eventually covered by the crown molding. Using scrap pieces of 1x2 as temporary spacers allowed me to bring the 1x4s out far enough so they wouldn't be entirely covered by the crown molding.

4. Installing the Main Beams

Installing the long 1x6 beams is definitely a two-person job. Apply a generous amount of Liquid Nails and use a 15-gauge angled nailer with 2 1/2" nails to secure the beams directly into the ceiling joists.

5. Crown Molding and Trim

Next, add the crown molding. I used a miter saw for the main cuts and a Dremel to fine-tune the inside angles.

The "Rustic" Decision: I originally planned to paint the whole ceiling white. But once the wood planks were up against the white beams, I fell in love with the two-tone, rustic look. I decided to leave the underlayment natural for now!

To finish the look, I added small molding around the inside of each coffer. 

This hides the tiny gaps and adds that "high-end" custom feel.

I used a simple miter box and a regular saw to make all those 45-degree angles; the day was too cold to go outside to use the miter saw. :)

As you can see... It's all in the little details!

6. Finishing Touches

The final task is the "boring" but necessary part:

1. Fill nail holes with painter's putty.

2. Run caulk down all the seams where the beams meet the planks.

3. Touch up the paint on the beams and trim.

I am absolutely delighted with how my new office looks! The combination of the natural wood underlayment and the crisp Swiss Coffee beams gives the room a warmth that wasn't there before.

If you have the right tools and a helping hand, this is a project you can totally tackle over a weekend. It's a high-impact way to add value and style to your home without breaking the bank.

Would you go for the two-tone rustic look, or would you paint the whole thing white? 

Let me know in the comments!

For all the other projects done in this room, check these out:

Part 1: The Starting Point

Part 2:  The Base Cabinets

Part 3:  The Decorative Toekick

Part 4: The Shelves

Part 5: The Bench

Part 6: The Table Makeover

Part 7: The Ceiling

Part 8: The Cabinet Doors

Part 9: DIY Pull-out Drawers

*Ryobi Tools were given to me to try out, 

I love them so much that they are the tools I use for my everyday projects. 

All stated opinions are my own.*

Affiliate links were added for your convenience.

*This post contains affiliate links.

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