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Built-Ins Second Part - The Base Cabinets

DIY Built-ins Part 2: Building and Installing Base Cabinets

Welcome back to the second installment of my built-in series! If you missed the first step, we've already cleared the space and [removed the baseboards]. Today, we are getting into the "meat" of the project: building the base cabinets.


The Foundation: A Solid 2x6 Base

We picked up right where we left off by building a sturdy platform. I opted for a simple base made of 2x6 lumber to support the weight of the upcoming cabinets.

Not only is this an incredibly cost-effective solution, but it feels rock-solid. To ensure everything stayed in place, I used pocket hole joinery to secure the base to the floor and spent extra time leveling it. A level base is the secret to a professional-looking finish!



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Kreg Rip-Cut  |  Ryobi Circular Saw


Building the Cabinet Boxes

For the cabinet boxes themselves, I chose a lower-grade plywood. Since the exterior will be covered by face frames and side panels later, there was no need to spend extra money on premium wood.


Pro Tip: To make transport easier, I always have the team at Home Depot "rip" the large 4x8 sheets into two manageable pieces. Once I get them home to my workshop, I make the final, precise cuts.


Tool Review: The Kreg Rip-Cut

For those smaller cuts, I finally broke out a new tool: the Kreg Rip-Cut. Overall, it made the job much faster because I didn't have to measure every single board when cutting multiple pieces of the same size.

  • The Pros: Incredible speed and consistency for repetitive cuts.

  • The Cons: Maintaining 100% precision on very long boards can be tricky when the saw blade is far from the guide.

Despite the learning curve, it definitely sped up the process!



Assembly and Must-Have Tools

I started by using pocket holes on the bottom panels to assemble the four boxes. I find it much easier to maneuver and hold the pieces together using the Kreg system.

How to build base cabinets for built ins
Suitable Angle Clamp  |  Spax Screws  |  Ryobi Drill 

I also discovered two "life-changing" additions to my toolbox during this phase:

  1. Right-Angle Clamps: I used these to attach the top cleats. I honestly don't know how I lived without them—they act like a second pair of hands.

  2. Spax Screws: I am officially obsessed. You don't need to pre-drill, and they drive into the wood like butter.


For the electrical outlet cutouts, my Ryobi Jigsaw remains my go-to tool. 

Once the boxes were ready, I secured them to each other through the front and back, then anchored the entire unit to the wall and the 2x6 base.

Ryobi jig saw outlet cut out for base cabinets

The "Face Frame" Struggle

Every DIY project has its "GRRRR" moment. While the first face frame went on perfectly with glue and pocket screws, the second frame gave me a run for my money.

Every time I tried to drive a screw, the wood split. I had to recut the wood and redrill the holes three different times! I realized I was getting frustrated, so I walked away and started fresh the next morning.

DIY Lesson: Sometimes the best tool in your shop is a good night's sleep.

The next day, the frames went on smoothly, and I was ready to move on to the countertops.

oak floors and white mirror in dining room where built ins are being constructed

Crafting the DIY Countertops

To create a chunky, high-end look, I used two layers of plywood glued together. I added about a hundred screws (okay, maybe a slight exaggeration, but it was a lot!) to ensure they stay bonded forever.

built ins countertop made out of two pieces of plywood

To hide the "sandwich" look of the plywood edges, I wrapped them in 1x2 select pine using wood glue and brad nails.

working in the garage building base cabinets.

The Save: I accidentally cut the plywood a bit too short on one side. To fix it, I simply added another 1x2 piece to the back edge to give me that extra inch of depth. 

Problem solved!

countertop for built ins
Ryobi Cordless Brad Nailer  |  Gorilla Glue

What's Next?

By Sunday evening, the structure was finally looking like real furniture. 

oak floors and light grey walls in dining room

I've already started sketching out decorative toe-kick ideas on paper. My husband liked the first draft, but I want to bring the design down a bit lower with a wider board for a more custom look.

building built ins in dining room

Stay tuned for the next post, where we dive into trim, toe-kicks, and the finishing touches!

5 comments :

  1. I LOVE your blog! It gives me hope that I too can build beautiful things in my home that do not scream DIY. Your work looks so professional and your instructions are easy to follow. As a matter of fact, I turned my coat closet into what I call our "drop zone" and I followed many of your techniques! Thank you!!!

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    1. Ann, thanks so much for your sweet words! I'm so glad you've been able to put some of those "techniques" to good use in your coat closet. One of my main goals when sharing my work is precisely that, to inspire people to go and do it! I don't call myself a builder, I'm more like a decorator that somehow has to build stuff to keep costs down. All this stuff is doable, of course lots of practice and the right tools will improve your results.

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  2. You are my inspiration! I love all that you've done to your home. I've been following you for a few years now (love your blog) and I'm planning on putting built-in's in empty wide hall and will follow your tutorial as an example. I can do this!

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  3. This is going to be an amazing transformation! Love it!

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