Installing Faux Wooden Beams - First Part

Installing Faux Wooden Beams: Part One – Planning and Prep

The last time I showed you my bedroom ceiling, it was a blank white canvas. After tackling some frustrating "character flaws"—think popping nails and old water stains—it finally looked pristine.

Two solid coats of paint later, it was technically as good as new. But let's be honest: it was boring.

I had this "gi-normous," high, slanted ceiling that was practically screaming for a focal point. It didn't take long to realize that the "something" it needed was beams.

The Master Plan: Layout and Design

My vision? 

A five-beam layout. Five. Cinco. 

I planned for one massive, chunky beam running along the very top ridge, with four more beams running perpendicular to it. 

To get started, I had to visualize the scale. That main ridge beam needed to be 18" wide to maintain the architectural lines of the existing wall.

The small beams would consist of three 1x4s assembled as a long U. 

Since the faux beams are hollow boxes, they need 2x4 cleats secured to the ceiling to hold them up.

Once on the ceiling, they would look like this:

Step 1: Mapping the Ceiling Joists

The first order of business was marking the layout. I grabbed the chalk line to determine exactly where the beams would sit. 

 

That big beam had to be 18" wide, since I wanted that beam to continue the same line as in that wall (left picture below).

Then, chalk lines determined the beams' placement.

I began marking the spots where the ceiling joists were located, as the 2x4s' cleats will be secured to them.   

Pro Tip: If you don't trust your stud finder, use a small finish nail or a drill bit to punch tiny holes until you find the solid resistance of a joist. As you can see below, I marked the joist's center between my two reference lines to ensure a secure hit every time.

Step 2: Adding Attic Supports (The "Oops" Moment)

The top ridge beam was easy—there was plenty of wood to screw into at the peak. However, when I mapped out the four symmetrical side beams, I ran into a snag: no joists.

I wasn't about to give up on symmetry. The solution? A trip to the attic to install "blocking" (2x4 supports) between the existing joists to give my cleats something to bite into.

I hauled my tools into the bedroom to save my legs from a hundred trips to the cold garage. 

Here, cutting the supports, before heading one more time to the attic.

It got messy, but it was worth it. If you remember my last post, this is precisely where I got stuck!

Step 3: Installing the 2x4 Cleats

With the attic supports finally in place, it was time for the heavy lifting. I predrilled the 2x4 cleats, using holes I punched in the attic to make the overhead installation smoother. (Side note: I desperately need a new drill-driver!)

With the supports in place, I could begin installing the 2x4 cleats on the ceiling. 

While working in the attic, I marked (again, by punching holes) where the supports had been placed, so the 2x4s were predrilled right there for an easier install.   

(I need to get a new drill-driver BIG TIME!)

The first beam support went up.

Then the second.  

I'll be the first to admit: I couldn't have done this alone. Holding a 12-foot 2x4 overhead while trying to drive screws is a recipe for disaster. 

My husband was the MVP here, helping me hold and drive two screws into every marked spot for maximum safety.

The Result: A Framework for Greatness

After two days of measuring, cutting, climbing, and drilling, the "skeleton" of the project is complete. We left a 1/4" gap along the walls to ensure the finished beams slide on easily.

It might just look like a bunch of 2x4s right now, but the foundation is set!

Ready to be spruced up some more.

What's Next? 

In my next post, I'll show you how we built the "pretty" boxes that cover these ugly 2x4s, creating a timeless chunky wood look.

• Click HERE for Part Two: Building the Beams
• Click HERE for Part Three: The Final Reveal