DIY - Console Table

In this post, I'll show you how to create a simple DIY console table.

This console table can be your next weekend build, using a few essential tools for its construction.

Pine was the primary material for this build, and the front of the apron got a slatted treatment. However, this is one of those builds that can be customized in many ways. The possibilities are endless, from the type of wood you use to the various customization treatments on the apron and/or top.

Let's get to the details of this console table!

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Tools and Materials

For this Console table, you will need:

1. One (52" x 16 1/2" x 3/4") pine project panel for the top.
2. One (49 1/2" x 14" x 3/4") pine project panel for the shelf.
3. Two 1" x 3"s (cut @48" for the apron).
4. Two 1" x 3"s (cut @ 12 1/2" for the apron).
5. Two 1" x 3"s scraps (cut @ 13 1/2" for top support).
6. Two 1" x 2"s (cut @48" for shelf).
7. Two 1" x 2"s (cut @ 12 1/2" for shelf).
8. Two 1" x 3"s scraps (cut @12 1/2" for shelf support).
9. Four 2" x 2"s (cut @32" long for the legs).
10. One pole-wrap piece (cut @48" x 2 1/2" - front apron detail).

• Wood glue
• 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
• 1 1/4" wood screws
• Kreg jig pocket hole jig
• Drill
• Sander with 120/220-grid sandpaper
• Miter saw - Circular saw - Jigsaw
• Paint or stain materials to finish it up
• Furniture feet
• Plans HERE

Most of the materials I needed for this project were left over from other jobs and inside the garage—the 2x2s for the legs, the 1x3s, and the 1x2s, too. I had to figure out what to use for the top and the shelf. I could've used plywood or glued pine boards together, but I went the easy way: buying a pine project panel from Lowes.

I like these project panels because they're wide, which lessens my workload. They can be painted or stained; I don't have to finish their edges. Their price is pretty, too. 👍

I bought a 3/4in x 24in x 6ft, which wasn't enough for the main surfaces. For the shelf, I had to use a remnant from another project plus the leftover from the top to complete that surface.

Since I already had most of the material, I built this console table focusing on the space dimensions this table would fill.

I recommend building the table slightly smaller (widthwise) to save on material. Buy two of each—6ft (1x2s and 1x3s)—and change the length of the front and back long pieces from 48 to 45 inches. The width of the entire table would go down to 49"—not a significant change, but more cost-effective.

DIRECTIONS:

STEP 1 - SAND AND PREPARE THE WOOD

Follow the list to cut your material to size.

Sand it smooth, using 120-grid sandpaper - Soften up those sharp corners.

At this point, I also applied the wood conditioner, as I knew this would be a stained project, and the stain would look less patchy if I used it first.

STEP 2 - DRILL POCKET HOLES

Use the Kreg Jig to drill 3/4" pocket holes on both ends of the 1 x 12.5-inch material and supports.

STEP 3 - ASSEMBLE THE LEGS TO CREATE TWO SETS - LEFT AND RIGHT LEG

Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to assemble both sets of legs, as shown below.

Ensure you attach the top apron with a 1/4" reveal on the outside and the shelf apron flush with the inside of the leg.

STEP 4 - ADD FRONT AND BACK APRONS

Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to install both sets of front and back aprons the same way as in the previous step. The top apron has a reveal of 1/4" on the front, and the lower apron is mounted flush with the inside of the legs.

STEP 5 - ATTACH TOP AND LOWER SUPPORTS

Use 1 1/4" pocket screws to attach top and lower supports. They should be installed flush with the top of both aprons.

STEP 6 - NOTCH OUT SHELF CORNERS AND INSTALL

I used two pieces of wood screwed together lengthwise to make the shelf. - You can use an entire piece or narrower planks. 

Use a jigsaw to notch out 3/4" on both sides of all corners.

Use 1 1/4" wood screws to install by screwing up the supports and into the shelf. Don't drive those screws too deep, as they might show up through the shelf.

STEP 7 - INSTALL THE TOP

Place the top on the floor, the good side down, and place the table upside-down, leaving a 1/2" overhang all around.

Drive 1 1/4" screws through the supports and into the top. 

NOTE: I also had to open pocket holes inside the apron to better secure the corners of the top to the table.

STEP 8 - PAINT OR STAIN

As previously stated, I used Pre-Stain wood conditioner before assembling the table. 

Once the table was assembled, I gave it a coat of Varathane Provincial, which I thought was too yellowish for my liking.

|  Varathane Provincial  |  Varathane Sunbleached  |

After sanding it with 120-grid sandpaper, I gave it a coat of Varathane Sunbleached wood stain, which has a more grayish tone.

I love that new color!

Once dry, it was sanded once again.

STEP 9 - ADD SLATTED DETAIL TO THE FRONT OF THE APRON

I had remnant pieces of pole wrap from the Kitchen Island makeover. Only a small portion of the pole wrap was needed for this small section of the table.

The pole-wrap pieces were also stained the same way as the table.

| Pole Wrap |

Then, wood glue was heavily applied to both surfaces (apron and back of pole-wrap) for installation.

Pony clamps were placed all along, holding both surfaces together while the glue dried. I even put a set of weight bags to keep things flat.

NOTE: I used the pole wrap because I already had it. However, I don't justify buying an entire wrap for this application. 

|   Wood Glue   |   Pony Clamps   |

STEP 9 - PROTECT THE WOOD

The final step is to protect the wood with Polyurethane, more so in my case, as this table would be outdoors on a balcony.

I applied three coats of Varathane Ultimate Spar Urethane, a water-based - Exterior poly, sanding with a 220-grid in between coats.

These are the final pictures of its final destination:

I hope you've enjoyed this build!

Check the entire balcony right HERE.

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