I went for an easy build with lots of tool storage - I didn't add a fence because I wanted to use the two cabinets as workstations too.
The best part is that this entire setup is movable and compatible with any miter saw.
This mobile miter saw station is made of 4-1/2 sheets of 3/4" plywood. It is 36" tall (what can I say, I'm short! 😄), 164.5" long, and 24.5" deep.
I bought the plywood at Home Depot and asked them to cut all sheets half-lengthwise. I asked the guy about five times to set the machine dead on center, and well, it paid off because all sheets were exactly 24" -
I covered the backs of the cabinets with 1/2" plywood from the scrap pile. If you don't mind an open back, you can also use two 3/4" ply stretches.
Before we head into this build, be sure to follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, and YouTube, where I share behind-the-scenes of my builds and home decor projects.
*This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.
Tools Used:
Materials / Supplies:
Directions:
1. CUT PLYWOOD
Follow the cut list on the plans right HERE. I used my circular saw to make most of the cuts.
Position the casters @ 1 1/2" from sides. Use 1 1/4" wood screws and washers to set the casters in place.
6. ATTACH BACK & DRILL SHELF PIN HOLES
Place the cabinet front face down and attach the back. - I used 1/2" plywood for the back.
Drill holes for shelf pins. I used a scrap piece of 1 x 6 on the bottom of the cabinet as a guide for where to start drilling the holes.
Well, at this point, both cabinets should look like this:
7. ADD EDGE BANDING TO DOORS (Optional) & INSTALL HINGES
I attached edge banding all around the doors. An iron, an X-Acto knife, and a band trimmer were the tools needed for this task.
Then, the doors were ready for hinges. I used the Jig It to make the concealed hinge cup holes - Three inches from the top and bottom of the doors.
Use the screws and directions that come with the hinges to set them in place.
8. PAINT OR STAIN DOORS AND INSTALL ON CABINETS
Painting or staining the cabinet is totally optional. But hey, I'm a decorator at heart. I had to do it.
I had trouble spraying poly over the painted doors; they looked all splotchy. To make things even worse, I sprayed black paint by mistake, thinking it was poly.
Well, I had to sand everything down.
After installing the doors, I gave them two coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane, and it looked way better!
Then, I gave the counters the same treatment. Well, they got three coats of poly, and I sanded the surfaces with 120 and 220-grit sandpaper in between coats.
Here you can see how smooth and shiny they looked when the polyurethane finally dried.
You can save it for later and share it right here:
For more Garage shop projects, check these out:
This mobile miter saw station is made of 4-1/2 sheets of 3/4" plywood. It is 36" tall (what can I say, I'm short! 😄), 164.5" long, and 24.5" deep.
I bought the plywood at Home Depot and asked them to cut all sheets half-lengthwise. I asked the guy about five times to set the machine dead on center, and well, it paid off because all sheets were exactly 24" -
I covered the backs of the cabinets with 1/2" plywood from the scrap pile. If you don't mind an open back, you can also use two 3/4" ply stretches.
Before we head into this build, be sure to follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, and YouTube, where I share behind-the-scenes of my builds and home decor projects.
*This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.
Tools Used:
- Milwaukee Circular Saw
- Milwaukee Drill & Driver
- Makita Miter Saw
- Kreg pocket hole jig
- Clamps
- Angle Square
- Ryobi Nailer
- Ryobi Jig Saw
- Kreg shelf pin jig
- DeWalt Sander
- Rockler Jig It
Materials / Supplies:
- 5 sheets 3/4" plywood
- 35 feet - 1 x 2 pine
- 8 - 4" Locking swivel casters
- 4 sets - Full overlay frameless hinges
- 1¼” Pocket Screws & Wood screws
- 1¼" wood screws and washers for casters
- 1¼” & 1½” Brad nails
- 8 - 1/4" x 3 1/4” Hex Bolt screws +1/4" hex nuts + washers & lock washers
- Wood glue
- 120 & 220 Sandpaper
- Paint & painting supplies
- Satin Polyurethane
Directions:
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2. DRILL POCKET HOLES
Use the miter saw to cut the top stretches and lower support pieces to size. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on ends.
3. ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM
Clamp both sides of the cabinet to the bottom and attach them with 1-1/4" wood screws. Do predrills. A 90-degree clamp came in handy, too.
4. ATTACH TOP STRETCHERS & DIVIDER
Use 1 1/4" pocket-hole screws to attach the top stretchers. Then, use a jigsaw to cut a 3/4" x 4" notch from the cabinet divider.
Use the miter saw to cut the top stretches and lower support pieces to size. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on ends.
3. ATTACH SIDES TO BOTTOM
Clamp both sides of the cabinet to the bottom and attach them with 1-1/4" wood screws. Do predrills. A 90-degree clamp came in handy, too.
4. ATTACH TOP STRETCHERS & DIVIDER
Use 1 1/4" pocket-hole screws to attach the top stretchers. Then, use a jigsaw to cut a 3/4" x 4" notch from the cabinet divider.
Center it inside the cabinet and attach it with 1 1/4" wood screws from the top of the stretchers and the bottom of the cabinet.
5. ADD LOWER SUPPORT FRAME & INSTALL CASTERS
Flip the cabinet top side down. Use glue and 1 1/4" brad nails to attach the lower support frame.
5. ADD LOWER SUPPORT FRAME & INSTALL CASTERS
Flip the cabinet top side down. Use glue and 1 1/4" brad nails to attach the lower support frame.
Position the casters @ 1 1/2" from sides. Use 1 1/4" wood screws and washers to set the casters in place.
Place the cabinet front face down and attach the back. - I used 1/2" plywood for the back.
Drill holes for shelf pins. I used a scrap piece of 1 x 6 on the bottom of the cabinet as a guide for where to start drilling the holes.
Well, at this point, both cabinets should look like this:
7. ADD EDGE BANDING TO DOORS (Optional) & INSTALL HINGES
I attached edge banding all around the doors. An iron, an X-Acto knife, and a band trimmer were the tools needed for this task.
Then, the doors were ready for hinges. I used the Jig It to make the concealed hinge cup holes - Three inches from the top and bottom of the doors.
Use the screws and directions that come with the hinges to set them in place.
8. PAINT OR STAIN DOORS AND INSTALL ON CABINETS
Painting or staining the cabinet is totally optional. But hey, I'm a decorator at heart. I had to do it.
The darkest color I had in my stash was this, the paint I used on my bedroom feature wall -BEHR Evening Hush.
9. ASSEMBLE & INSTALL COUNTERTOP-S
The countertops consist of two layers of 3/4" plywood, finished with 1 x 2 pine all around.
Glue together the two plywood surfaces, then drive a few 1 1/4" brad nails on the top side of the counter. Flip it over and drive 1 1/2" wood screws to secure the two surfaces.
Note: I didn't drive nails or screws into the middle section because I'm planning to add a t-track & stop later on. I don't want to hit any screws with the router. ;)
Use the miter saw to cut the 1 x 2 pine to size, mitering the corners. Install all around the edge of the counter with wood glue and 1 1/2" brad nails.
Assemble both countertops and the miter saw shelf the same way.
10. INSTALL MITER SAW SHELF
I had to give ample space to my Makita miter saw to swing up to the 60-degree in both directions.
9. ASSEMBLE & INSTALL COUNTERTOP-S
The countertops consist of two layers of 3/4" plywood, finished with 1 x 2 pine all around.
Glue together the two plywood surfaces, then drive a few 1 1/4" brad nails on the top side of the counter. Flip it over and drive 1 1/2" wood screws to secure the two surfaces.
Note: I didn't drive nails or screws into the middle section because I'm planning to add a t-track & stop later on. I don't want to hit any screws with the router. ;)
Assemble both countertops and the miter saw shelf the same way.
10. INSTALL MITER SAW SHELF
I had to give ample space to my Makita miter saw to swing up to the 60-degree in both directions.
That's what determines the width of the miter saw's shelf.
Place your miter saw on top of a plywood shelf and measure the distance from the miter saw table to the top of that shelf. That will give you the number at which the top of the miter saw shelf should be installed.
Install the 2 x 4 supports on each side of the cabinet by drilling 1/4" holes and securing them with 1/4" x 3 1/4" hex bolt screws. Secure from inside the cabinet with 1/4" washers, lock washers, and hex nuts.
I also added another 2 x 2 pine support to drive the 2 1/2" screws to secure the miter saw shelf onto it. Make sure everything is level, and the miter saw table is at the same height as both countertops on each side.
11. SAND AND FINISH
Sand the entire station with 120-grit sandpaper before applying the finish.
Place your miter saw on top of a plywood shelf and measure the distance from the miter saw table to the top of that shelf. That will give you the number at which the top of the miter saw shelf should be installed.
Install the 2 x 4 supports on each side of the cabinet by drilling 1/4" holes and securing them with 1/4" x 3 1/4" hex bolt screws. Secure from inside the cabinet with 1/4" washers, lock washers, and hex nuts.
I also added another 2 x 2 pine support to drive the 2 1/2" screws to secure the miter saw shelf onto it. Make sure everything is level, and the miter saw table is at the same height as both countertops on each side.
11. SAND AND FINISH
Sand the entire station with 120-grit sandpaper before applying the finish.
I had trouble spraying poly over the painted doors; they looked all splotchy. To make things even worse, I sprayed black paint by mistake, thinking it was poly.
Well, I had to sand everything down.
After installing the doors, I gave them two coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane, and it looked way better!
I had to wait an entire day for each coat to dry.
My Makita 12-inch dual-bevel sliding compound miter saw takes center stage here.
The dual dust collection ports for excellent dust extraction, the unique 2-steel-rail sliding system that keeps it flush against the wall, and the silky operation of this beauty are among the features I like most about this miter saw.
Here is how the left side of my garage shop is looking now. I still need to adjust those doors some more, add handles, and the t-track stop system.
Oh, I also started organizing those shelves.
I'm super glad to check this task off my to-do list!
I'll update this post with the plans and a complete video as soon as they're ready.
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| | Makita 12 In. Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser | |
Here is how the left side of my garage shop is looking now. I still need to adjust those doors some more, add handles, and the t-track stop system.
I'll update this post with the plans and a complete video as soon as they're ready.
You can save it for later and share it right here:
For more Garage shop projects, check these out:
*This post contains affiliate links.
Wow so inspirational!! I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one that makes mistakes in the middle of projects! I usually have to walk away to vent a little then come back with better focus. But with such lovely tools, you deserve to have the very best work stations! Congratulations!
ReplyDeleteOutstanding as always!!! I am in the process of "pairing down" as opposed to adding but this is something I could see as very beneficial!!! As my son pointed out, you can't own a home without a chop saw...lol!
ReplyDelete